Not Quite NigellaThe cooking, eating and travel blog of a hungry blogger from Sydney, Australia featuring original recipes, interviews and articles on all things food @
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
For instance, I once made a pancetta, pea and pumpkin risotto, topped with pecorino.
(I’ll have you know I’m not the only person who loves alliteration. Just ask Grace ☺)
And of course, when I saw quince, I had to team it with quark.
I thought a quark was something one encountered in physics lessons, but as it turns out, it’s a type of cheese. I first came across this cool ingredient over at Passionate about Baking, and then found a recipe at What's For Lunch, Honey?.
It sounded pretty simple, and it was! Basically you let buttermilk ferment, then hang it in cheesecloth to drain it. Meeta’s recipe required the buttermilk to be left in a low oven overnight. I feel a bit funny about leaving the oven on when I’m asleep, so after much googling, I found a suggestion to wrap the buttermilk container in clean tea-towels to keep it warm (sorry, I can’t find the link again).
I thought a combination of the two might work, so I heated the oven (about 80˚C I think, not too high or it will kill the buttermilk culture), poured a 1L carton of buttermilk into my very well cleaned casserole dish, bunged the lid on and wrapped the whole thing in a two clean tea-towels. I popped this into the oven and turned the oven off. After leaving it overnight, I tried pouring the mixture into a cheesecloth (muslin) lined sieve but seemed to be losing quite a lot of the milky fluid. So I poured it all back into the casserole dish, turned the oven on again (about 70˚C or so), and put the dish back into the oven for a couple of hours.
Then I poured the mixture back into the muslin-lined sieve. This time it worked, I left it to drain for a while then proceeded with the recipe that Meeta provided. The only thing I did differently was - after hanging the cheese at room temp for a couple of hours (when it had stopped dripping), I placed the muslin ball in a sieve, over a bowl, and placed the whole thing in the fridge overnight before removing the quark.
I was quite surprised to find only a small amount of quark produced from a whole litre of buttermilk. It tastes very interesting, almost like a yoghurt rather than a cheese, and the best part - low fat content. Get that creamy texture minus the guilt!
Paired with some stewed quince and store-bought water-crackers, the quark proved to be a winner. In fact, MC Senior thought I had actually bought the “special white cheese”, because it “tasted so good, I didn’t realise you made it” (what does this say about the rest of my meals?).
As for the stewed quince, I peeled, cored and diced two medium sized quince, placed them in a saucepan with about ½ cup sugar (I like it a bit tart, add more sugar to taste), just enough water to prevent burning and sticking (about ¼ cup) and one vanilla bean. Then I left it to simmer on a very low heat for hours (at least 4 I think). Check and stir every once in a while, adding a slurp or two of water if necessary.
The long cooking time ensures that the quince becomes beautifully coloured. I used to think that some quinces became red while others only cooked pink, but according to Maggie Beer and Stephanie Alexander, long and slow cooking is what gives the quince its brilliant hue.
The aroma of the cooking quinces is just amazing. MC Senior kept begging to eat some. In fact, I actually ended up making two batches of the quince because the first lot got eaten before the cheese was ready!
Oh, and while we’re on the subject of quince: every book I’ve seen says that raw quince is unpalatable. I actually quite like the flavour and usually munch on a raw slice or two while getting it ready for the pot. I thought this was a bit weird until I saw a guy at the beach the other day eating a quince like an apple…skin and all! Strange but true.